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YouTubeA few weeks ago I got fed up with the light in my daughters room being left on “all the time”. I decided to take matters into my own hands … with the help of some technology.
I’ve been using X-10 modules, remotes, and RF to AC repeaters for years. A few years back I installed a home security/automation system that is compatible with X-10 modules, so I started putting the technology back to work. If you’re not familiar with X-10 go here: http://www.smarthome.com/about_x10.html
X-10 is far from new … it’s an old technology … and it’s far from trouble free. But, with the right filters and signal repeaters, it behaves MUCH better. Newer technologies are Insteon, Z-Wave, UPB, and Zigbee (all more expensive and not necessarily widely supported). See this site for LOTS of devices … and ideas! http://www.smarthome.com
The point of this story however, is to fix the light being left on.
So, what I had in place already was a celing mounted fixture with a halogen bulb along with a wall dimming wall switch.
I knew I wanted motion sensing and I knew I had to somehow interrupt the power to the wall switch (not between the switch and the ceiling fixture!).
I found these devices:
Motion Sensor
Info here: http://www.smarthomeusa.com/ShopByManufacturer/X-10-Pro/Item/PMS02/
It’s a wireless (sends RF signal) motion sensor.
In order for this device to send a signal across the electric lines, it’s necessary to have a transceiver module.
Transceiver Module
Info here: http://www.smarthomeusa.com/ShopByManufacturer/X-10-Pro/Item/PAT01
This module receives RF (wireless) signals and transfers them to the AC power lines
I already had this module.
In-Line Non-Dimming Fixture Module
Info here: http://www.smarthomeusa.com/ShopByManufacturer/X-10-Pro/Item/XPFM/
NOW A WORD OF CAUTION!!!
This module is intended to be wired IN-LINE in the electric wiring in the house. This requires shutting off the power (DO NOT DO WIRING WHILE THE ELECTRIC IS “HOT”), and disconnecting previously connected wire nuts. If you are not thoroughly familiar with electrical wiring in a 110V/220V system then DO NOT attempt to install this. It should be fairly inexpensive to have an electrician wire it in — cheaper than losing your life for sure!
Now, how does this all go together?
The motion sensor is set to a certain house code and unit code and potentially requires some basic configuration (done via 2 buttons inside the front cover). When it senses motion it will send a wireless RF signal.
The transceiver module will pickup the RF signal and will transfer it into the house wiring.
The fixture module (wired in) picks up the house code and unit code (if it’s set to the same one) as well as an on or off command, it will react accordingly.
So in my case, I use house code M and unit code 9. When the motion sensor “sees” motion it sends an ON command. The fixture module hears it and turns on. I also have the motion sensor set to send an OFF command 2 minutes later once it sees no motion. Remember I’m using a wall switch as well, so as long as te wall switch is left ON, when the fixture module turns on, the ceiling fixture turns on (at whatever dim level the wall switch is set to). The wall switch can be turned off manually so we can walk in at night without causing the light to come on. The motion sensor still sends an on command, and the fixture module still turns on, but the wall switch overrides the system.
If you want to talk more about how I did this, or about X-10 in general, let me know.
I’ve always been interested in X10, talked to Dad but he seems to be one hundred percent against the technology. His idea that it’s too flaky and too hard to fix. What kind of filters did you have to install to get around some of those problems? I’ve heard about refrigerators and washing machines needing them for example.
I actually have not had that hard of a time with it … even with fairly close neighbors. That tends to be a big problem for some people. I have a filter on 1 desktop PC and in reality it is not used anymore. I could be used for any 110V device that might put noise into the system. Big problem items are computers because of the switching power supplies (look that up sometime), window air conditioners (older models especially), and refrigerators (again older “non-green” models). Other than that I had to install a signal bridge into the breaker box. It is “supposed” to be hooked to two empty breakers, but I shared two breakers that are already in use — one of them even contains the septic tank motor. The reason for the bridge is to get across the “two sides” of the breaker box — not phases. X10 sends signals across the hot and neutral lines (as I recall) and sometimes cannot get across to the other side of the box (1 bus to the other bus). I “occasionally” have a phantom on signal get received by 1 of the living room lamp modules — but I have it attached to a UPS too so I suspect the UPS is sending something through — potentially when it is doing a self battery test. About UPS and X10 .. they do not get along. X10 will “usually” not pass through a UPS (in or out) and I have never seen a UPS pass noise back out to the line side (just to the load) so no need to filter them.
Start with something small – 1 lamp module or appliance module (lamp module can dim – appliance cannot), a transceiver module (which will also control 1 appliance, and 1 wireless remote. There are tons of different signal bridges available – but most all of them require wiring into the box. There are a couple that I just looked up that can be plugged into a 220V outlet which then can still be used (like for a dryer) that acts like a bridge as well. You do not have to buy one right off … see how it works first. Move the modules around and see if you can get across the breaker box without it (find an outlet on one side of the box and an outlet on the other side of the box (just look inside if you have them labeled.
I have 10 modules in use that I can think of and I do not have problems — except for the case above that I mentioned.
You can always add on to the “system” later on with more devices, PC control, alarm clock/timers, etc. One of the other projects I did was using a dry contact module to turn on and off a heat/air damper. It’s switching the 12VAC output from a transformer to open and close the damper. That module is called a Powerflash Interface.
Let me know if you want some help to fund a test.